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Q1:
Is there any trick to getting the shift fork bushing and seal out of the rear middle cover?

A1:
1) Put it in a press and use a socket to press it out
2) Use a die grinder to cut/grind it in half (BE CAREFUL to NOT hit the aluminum)
3) Put it in a Vice and use the socket and hammer method

Q2:
I got the Bushing in, but now the Shift selector rail does not fit, do I need to open up the I.D. of the bushing?

A2:
Yes, you need to take a dremel, and open up the bushing a little. Just a little though. It is easy to take too much so sand a little, and then test fit. When you do the test fit the rail of the selector, it will leave a mark where you need to sand a little more. Do this a few times, try not to get it done all in one sanding, or you will sand too much…trust me.

Q3:
The shift selector rail won't go into the rear cover now.

A3:
1) Did you replace that bushing? You may need to sand that bushing as well.
2) Did you use a hammer to try and get the rail through the new bushing in the intermidiate cover? You may have ever so slightly flared the end of the rail, which now is too big for the bushing. To fix, just take a sander, or the dremel, and round the end of the rail true again, maybe even put a small radius on it.
3) May also be that the new bushing has got the rail misaligned, and should center itself once you get the proper clearance from sanding.
4) Also make sure that the selector is in a gate, and the detent plunger is not hitting the shift selector and keeping it from sliding onto the rail.


Shift Finger Bushing and Seal Kit (060-082m)

Q: What Gears are available

A: As far legal gears go there are not too many to choose from. Here Is a list of legal gears, and possible gear stack combinations.

15/36
17/34
19/32
21/29

22/30 (same as 21/29 + 50rpm. 21/29 better torque, and gear split. I recommend the 21/29)
23/28
24/27
25/26
26/26 (Any 1:1 Ratio is legal)

Short stack for auto crossing, or very tight track configuration

15/36

17/34

19/32

21/29

23/28

Short Stack, and most common

17/34

19/32

21/29

23/28

24/27

Tall Stack for fast tracks

19/32

21/29

23/28

24/27

25/26

Tall stack with short 1^st Used at fast tracks that have at least on SLOW corner

17/34

19/32

21/29

23/28

25/26
Link To Gears
15/36
17/34
19/32
21/29
23/28
24/27
25/26

Q: What is the proper float level for a FM carb

A: Here are the steps for setting the Float Level:

1) Remove the Bowl Cover
a) Take off the fuel line from Carb Inlet
b) Remove the Jet Inspection Cover
c) Unscrew the 5 bolts that hold the cover in place

2) Remove the Gasket from the Bowl Cover. To do this you will need to remove the Float Pin (see pic below). Then re-install the float

3) While holding the Bowl Cover and Float upside down you want the top of the Float to be parallel to the Bowl Cover. This will measure 10mm.

4) The Float should travel 10mm. To measure lift the Float until it stops and measure from the Bowl Cover to the Top of the Float.

5) If you need to adjust, remove the Float from the Bowl Cover and use a pair of Needle Nose to gently bend the adjustment tabs (see pic below)

This is the operating range that seems to work good for a Standard FM. You can fine tune this depending on engine, or track conditions. Raising the float will submerge the emulsion tube more making the main circuit richer. Lowering it will lean the main out. It also changes the RPM at which you go from the Idle jets to the Main Jets. Beleive it or not this is a fine tune, not a major. If your Float is set to these specs, you will very rarely have to change the float level. From here the you can do 99% of the tunning with Jets.

When adjusting the float PLEASE remove it from the Bowl Cover. This way you can set it on a flat surface to adjust the tabs. Trying to do it while on the Bowl Cover, and just bending it with your fingers, can lead to an uneven balance between the two floats, making it hard to measure the actual Float travel, and tougher to tune.


Let the float gently rest on the Needle. This will determine when the Float is full and fuel will stop being fed into the Bowl


You want to measure the 10mm travel at the end of the float. This is the level at which the needle will be fully open feeing the Bowl with fuel.


Remove the pin initially to remove the gasket. This will make measuring easier. Also remove the float to make any level adjustments.


This tab adjusts the float "closed" level.



This tab adjusts the travel length or the "open" level.

That is Malcolms old car which was Garrets old car...right? It has Motec. Can you email me the data from one of the sessions that this warning occured? Thanks

Moses

Here is the long and short of Spark Plugs.

By now every one should be running the NGK plugs.

As far as cleaning, they shouldn't really need to be cleaned. If they do, we have another problem.

One way to help insure that the plugs stay clean, is the proper shut down procedure. After a session when returning to the pits, shut the fuel pump off and let the car run out of fuel and stall. This does a couple of things.

1) This allows the fuel to drain out of the bowl, relieving pressure on the needle and seat.
2) This also creates a very "lean" burn right at the end that will burn any excess fuel and carbon off the plugs, and surrounding areas of the combustion chamber

Make sure you remember to shut the ignition off once the car stalls. This is especially important if you run a MoTeC Lambda sensor. The MoTeC Lambda sensor is a heated sensor that continuously draws power, and could lead to a dead battery (a subject for another tech thread)

When you go to restart the Car, you will need to turn on the fuel pump, and listen for it to pressurize. Once it has slowed the infamous clicking noise, give the carb to full squarts of fuel. Now turn on the ignition, and crank away. If it does not fire right away, give it another squart of fuel while cranking.

If you ever want to clean the plugs, only use a wire brush and brake clean. Then INSPECT very closely to make sure none of the little wires from the brush ended up in the plug.

DO NOT SAND BLAST. It is very hard to get all the little beads out of the plug. Even blowing it with air can leave, or even help lodge the little beads into the plug. Once those little beads get into the engine, they can do SERIOUS damge to the rotor housings. Once the damage is done ...it is done. Yes your engine will still run fine, but the apex seals will not seal as well, costing you HP.

As far as replacement...Once a year should be fine, for the NGK. If you are still using the bosch or some sort of OTC plug, you should be inspecting at least every day of use. These plugs can seriously deteriorate, which not only costs HP, but can lead to detonation, and engine damage.

Hope this helps...