Yuku free message boards

Niiiccce....

If you want to try and save it a while drill a pin hole at the end of the crack. You can epoxy it for a while but the issue is the constant pressure on the L side cover via the ring gear. The pinion is constantly trying to push the diff out the left side of the case. With epoxy in place you'll get some time on it but the pressure under it will begin to separate the glue from the case. It's bandaid deal.

Welding will work but the heat may also distort the case some and the poor metal quality tends to be hard to weld on. Most in time will crack again right next to the bead. A step over the above but still not a new case.

Recasing is not hard but should be done by someone with the right tools (like me or Taylor) and some experience in doing it. Not really for the DIYer. You'll need a case, seal, diff bearings, spigot some shims and likely a pinion bearing at the least. But most work leads to expense of "while we're in there...." and you can figure on some additional parts. Personally I wouldn't call lots of $ unless your box is trashed anyhow, but yes it's probably close to $2k given the case is about $700 still. If you plan to sell soon you won't get this money back but if you keep the car it's worth correcting it.

You may also want to check and replace the trans support bushings and bolts and ease your way over the curbs some in the future. I suspect most cracks are from wheel spin and the immediate shock of the LR wheel hitting the ground again while free wheeling.